The History and Culture of Cake Mixing

Yum, Yum!
By Shoma A. Chatterji
Cake mixing has become a celebratory event across India in recent times. This is not the home-baked cakes and muffins and pastries one is talking about. Or the tarts and the chocolate cakes one buys at cut-throat prices across the counters of prettily decorated cake shops. Cake-mixing is an event unto itself and brings people together in fun and frolic to surrounding one of our favourite delicacies – The Christmas Cake. Christmas is no fun without the traditional Christmas cake, and making it is no quick and easy task – preparations begin months in advance for that. To mark the birth of Jesus Christ, swanky hotels here organise cake-mixing ceremonies to spread the warmth of the festive season. People from different walks of life come together for such ceremonies and though it began with the Christians, it has now spread out to touch people belonging to all communities that make it a secular celebration to participate in and enjoy.

Cake Mixing by members and kids of New Light at Flurys one

Cake mixing is a ritual that follows a definite process of putting the elaborate ingredients together, mixing them and then waiting till the mixture is ready for baking and distributing to friends, family and relatives. It has its own history and over time, has become an inseparable part of our culture and our Christmas celebrations. Cake-mixing is a harbinger of good tidings and happiness. The history of the event of cake mixing dates back to the 17th century in Europe.

The ceremony also marks the arrival of the harvest season. During this time, lots of fruits and nuts were harvested and used in the making of the traditional plum cake. The stirring ceremony is part of an age-old Christmas tradition of cake mixing and one making wishes for the New Year. The ingredients of the festive fruit cake are mixed with wine and liquor in advance so that the ingredients can develop aroma and taste. Originally a family affair, it is for many years celebrated within organisations to spread camaraderie and goodwill.

The history

Some stories go that the cake mixing ceremony was born after World War II and was later shaped by flour mills that had a surplus of four. Others say that it was brought into popular culture in the 1930s traced back to a surplus of molasses and not flour. Decades back, a company in Pittsburg, USA, called P. Duff and Sons is believed to have created the first ever commercially produced cake mix which is not exactly the Christmas cake but more mundane and rooted to the common man’s conception of the cake. On December 10, John D. Duff applied for a patent for an “invention that relates to a dehydrated flour for use in making pastry products and to a process of making the same.” The application comprised of a mix for gingerbread to create a powder of wheat flour, molasses, sugar, shortening, salt, baking soda, powdered whole egg, ginger and cinnamon that the home cook could defrost and/or rehydrate with water and then bake it.

Cake Mixing with New Light Kids at Flurys

Cake-mixing with New Light Kids at Flurys.

According to a surviving pamphlet believed to date to 1933 or 1934, Duff’s mixes came in several varieties; some of them not quite cake, like nut bread, bran muffin, and fruit cake. But two flavours would be instantly recognisable to any Duncan Hines devotee—devil’s food and spice cake. The mixes sold for 21 cents per 14-ounce can. By the end of the 1940s, more than 200 companies were putting out cake mixes, with the lion’s share going to Betty Crocker or Pillsbury. Interestingly, while General Mills and Duncan Hines went the add-eggs route, Pillsbury stuck to the just-add-water method and only phased it out later.

Cake mixing however, is poles apart from cake baking which happens much after cake mixing is done. It is a pickling process, sort of, when the mixed ingredients are allowed to marinate in the juices and beverages for 40 days before baking can begin. According to Rahul Arora who owns a few restaurants in Kolkata called Bon Appétit and Prana respectively, cake-mixing is a must for his eatery every year. The ingredients that go into the cake mixing do not include flour and eggs. So, the mixing takes place with cinnamon, clove, mace, rum,, brandy, whisky, wine, honey, golden syrup, raisin, black raisin, cashew, walnut, almond, candied fruit, cherries, black currant, dates figs and prunes.